How to achieve French nails effortlessly

1. Prepare the nail

• Carry out your usual prep routine: remove previous product, refine the cuticle area, cleanse, and remove surface shine if using gel.
• Apply your chosen base layer and cure where required. A stable foundation ensures the white tip applies smoothly.
• To stop bleeding of the white, apply a matte base coat prior to white application.

2. Plan your smile line

Before applying colour, determine:

• The width of the white tip
• The depth and shape of the smile line
• The level of symmetry needed across all nails

Marking a faint guideline is optional, but helpful especially on shorter nails or when aiming for perfect uniformity.

3. Load the brush correctly

• Dip the curved edge of the Katie Barnes French brush 08 into your white gel or polish.
• Ensure the bristles carry enough product for coverage, but avoid overloading. Excess gel increases the risk of flooding and makes the line harder to control.

Shop the Katie Barnes curved cuticle scissors for easy nail prep.

4. Create the smile line

• Anchor the brush into the first sidewall, allowing the curved edge to hug the natural contour of the nail. Think of it like stamping the gel smile line into place to create the template.
• Feather down from this to the free edge.
• Keep your pressure light - let the curve of the brush guide the shape.
• Lift the brush cleanly at the end of the stroke to avoid streaking.
• Repeat on the other side.

5. Perfect and refine

Before curing:

• Compare both hands to check for balance and symmetry.
• If adjustments are needed, use the same brush or a fine detailer to refine the shape.
• Remove any overflow immediately to maintain crisp borders.

6. Seal and finish

• Cure the white tip fully.
• Apply your chosen top coat, ensuring complete coverage and proper sealing at the free edge.
• Cure and finish with cuticle oil for a polished result.

Tips for consistency

• Rotate the client’s hand rather than your own body position – this keeps the smile line in your natural line of sight.
• Adjust the width of the French depending on nail length; shorter nails benefit from a narrower white tip for more flattering proportions.
• For gels that tend to run, remove excess product from the brush shoulder before applying.
• Clean and reshape the 08 brush after every use to maintain its precise curve.
• The brush can also be used for reverse French designs by simply altering your anchor point.

By pairing correct technique with a purpose-designed tool, you elevate both your efficiency and your finish quality – two things clients always notice.